Fabric guiding means for sewing machines



Feb. 7, 1933. F. A. KUCERA FABRIC GUIDING MEANS FOR SEWING MACHINES 7 Filed Feb. 25, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet l Feb. 7, 1933. F. 'A. KUCERA 1,896,903

FABRIC GUIDING MEANS FOR $EWING MACHINES Filed Feb. 25, 1932 I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I3nnentor gammy m (lttorneg 5 Patented Feb. 7, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

' FRANK A. KUCER A, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR 'IO'UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS FABRIC GUIDING- IMEANS FOR SEWING MACHINES Application filed February 25, 1982. SerialNo. 595,187. I i

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a fabric guiding means for forming hem folds, and more particularly to a fabric guiding means wherein the member OVerwhiCh the fabric section is folded may be withdrawn at will for the finishing ofcertain portions of the seam. v

An object of the invention is to provide a simple form of fabric guiding meansfor infolding the edge portion of the fabric section to form a hem of a predetermined width wherein a fabric supporting and guiding member extending across the stitching line may be manually shifted to withdraw the same from the hem fold and may also be adjusted to different set positions within the hem fold. I

A further object of the invention is to provide a fabric guiding means of the above type wherein the support for the fabric guiding and supporting member is adjustable toward and from the stitching line and serves as an, edge guide for the infolded portion of the fabric.

A further object of the invention is to provide a fabric guiding means of the above type wherein the fabric supporting and guiding member extending into the hem fold is provided with a stop contacting with the supporting member therefor ,for limiting the movement of the fabric supporting and guiding member in the direction of movement of the fabric.

In the drawings a Figure 1 is a plan view of the fabric guiding means embodying the improvements and a portion of a work support with the parts applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view longitudinally through the fabric guiding means and in a direction at right angles tothe line of feed; Fig. 3 is a sectional vieW on the line 3-3 g- Fig. 4 is a view in plan showing a portion of the work support, the fabric support-ing and guiding member, the support therefor with the fabric supporting and guiding member turned so as to withdraw the samefrom stitching of the hem; and I Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view showing the hem fold and the position of the same relative to the stitching lines.

The invention is directed to a guiding means for sewing machines which forms a hem fold in a fabric section. ,The fabric guidingmeans includes a member located at one side of the stitching line which guides and underfolds the edge portion of the fabric section. Said fabric guiding means also includes a fabric supporting member which is pivotally mounted on a supporting plate and disposed so as to extend within thehem fold and across the stitching line. Both the fabric guiding member for underfolding the edge portion and the fabric supporting and guiding member which cooperates therewith are mounted on the work support for independent adjustments toward and from the line of stitching. The fabric supporting and guidingmember is made in sections so that the outer end thereof which cooperates with the guiding member underfolding the edge vportion may be shifted relative thereto without changing the position ofthe supporting plate for said fabric guiding and supporting member. Said fabric supporting and guiding member is also provided with a stop for. limiting the inward swinging motion thereof on the supporting plate'and for holding said fabric guiding and supportingmember nor mally in a set position. 7

Referring more in detail to the drawings,

the improved fabric guiding means is shown as attached to a flat work support 1 which is provided with a throat plate 2 having openings 3, 3 through which needles 4:, 4 pass.

The throat plate is also provided with slots 5 in which the feed dog 6 operates to feed the fabric in the direction indicated by the'arrow 7 in Fig. 1. Cooperating with the needles 4, 4 beneath the work support is a single thread carrying loopcr which forms loops .which oin the needle thread loops. In Fig. 5 of the drawings a fabric section F is shown,

the edge portion of which is underfolded as indicated at f for forming a hem. The lefthand needle 4 forms a line of stitching indicated at n, which line of stitching is disposed outside of the extreme edge of the. under:

folded portion The right-hand needle 4 forms a line of stitching indicated at 'n which penetrates the body portion of the fabric section and the underfolded edge portion f. The looper thread Z joins these needle loops and covers the edge of the fabric section.

The present fabric guiding means is de signedfor stitching a hem fold such as shown in Fig. 5. Said fabric guiding means includes a fabric guiding member 8 which is located at one side of the stitching lines, which are the lines of stitches formed by the needles 4, 4. This fabric guiding member 8 is secured to the work support by screws 9, 9 passing through a slot '10 which is disposed so that the fabric guiding mem-' ber 8 may be adjusted to different set positions in a direction at right angles to the line of feed or the stitching lines. Thefabric. guiding member 8 is provided with a curved guiding member ll'which extends over the throat plate and terminates in front of'the needle openings 8, 3. The purpose of this guiding member 8 is to guide and sad in un derfolding the edge portion of the fabric sec tion. Cooperating with this fabric guiding and folding member 8'is a fabric supporting and guiding member 12 which is pivoted at 13 to a supporting plate 14:. The supporting plate 14 is provided with a slot 15 through which holding screws 16, 16 are passed and thread ed into the work support. This permits the fabric supporting and guidingpmember to be shifted as a whole in a direction at right angles to the line of feed or the stitching lines toward and from the fabric guiding member 18; The supporting plate 1% is so positioned on the'worksupport that the edge 1'? thereof serves as an edge guide for the underneath folded portion of the fabric section. Said I supporting plate is set so that the edge of the underfolded portion will bedirccted between the stitching lines as shown in Fig. 5. This supporting plate lat has. the rear edge thereof tapered downwardly as indicated at 18 so as to permit the body portionof the fabric section to foot.

The fabric supporting and guiding member 12 is formed in two sections. It includes a body portion 12 in which ismounted a plate 12 having the outer corners thereof rounded as indicated at 19 and 20. This plate 12 isthe part-"which extends within the hem fold and across the stitching line and cooperates with the guiding member 8 in the folding ofthe edge portion of the fabric underneath to produce a hem which is to be pass down underneath the presser stitched. The plate 12? is secured to the body member 12 by screws 21, 21 passing through a slot 22 in the body portion and threaded I into the plate. The purpose of these screws is to permit the plate to be shifted on the body portion of the fabric supporting member. After the plate 14 is properly set for guiding the edge of the fabric section, the plate 12 is shifted so'as to properly position the same to cooperate with the fabric guiding member. 8 in the forming of the hem. in other words, the hem forming portion of the fabric supporting and guiding member and the edge guiding portion thereof are independently shiftable to different set positions. The body member 12 is also provided with a depending lug 23 which serves as a stop to limit the inward swingingmotion of the fabric, guiding and supporting member 12. This stopfengages the side face of the plate 14:. It servesto limit the inward swinging movement of the plate due to thepassing of the fabric sections thereover and holds the position. The body portion 12 has the edge portions thereof turneddownso as to form a housing for the plate 12'.

Vhile the guiding means has been described as particularly adapted for forming a hem fold' wherein-the edge of the fold is covered by the stitching threads, it will be understood that from certain aspects of the invention the inner edgeof the folded under section may, be again infolded, in which case it would be necessary to use only'one line of stitching. V r

From the above it will be apparent that a fabric guiding'means has been provided for turning a hem fold wherein the fabricguid ing member over which the fabric is folded can be Withdrawn at will. In the hemming ofbath robes which are made of relatively heavy inaterial the hem extends continuously'on both sides of the front and around the bottom. In turning the corners the fabric turned underneath is greatly increased in thickness and it is difficult to pass it through a folderwith the inner member in place. The operator, therefore; swings this inner menu ber out of'the folder while turning the corner. vThen again. in forming circular hems.

it is desirable tov remove the inner member from the hem fold in order to complete the stitchingof the hemrand this can huereadily accomplished on the fabric guiding means abovedes'cribed.

"f It'1s obvious that m nor changes 1n the details ofconstructionand the arrangement of the parts may be made without departing Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters- Patent, isi 1. A fabric guiding means for forming a hem comprising an edge guiding and folding member located at one side of the stitching line, a fabric supporting member extending across the stitching line and cooperating with said edge guiding and folding member for underfolding the edge portion of the fabric section, a supporting plates on which said fabric supporting member is pivotally mounted whereby the same may be swung for withdrawing said fabric supporting platefrom the hem fold to permit the completingof the stitching of the hem, said supporting plate serving as an edge guide for the folded under edge of the fabric section, and said fabric supporting memberbeing formed in sections whereby the position of the outer end thereof may be adjusted relative to its pivotal support.

2. A fabric guiding means for forming a hem comprising an edge guidin and folding member located atone side 0% the stitching line, a fabric supporting member extending across the stitching line and cooperating with said edge guiding and folding member for underfolding the edge portion of the fabric section, a supporting plate on which said fabric supporting member is pivotally mounted whereby the same may be swung for withdrawing said fabric supporting plate from the hem fold to permit the completing of the stitching of the hem, said supporting plate serving as an edge guide for the folded under edge of the fabric section, and said fabric supporting member being formed in sections whereby the position of the outer end thereof may be adjusted relative to its pivotal support, and a lug carried by said fabric supporting member adapted toengage said supporting plate for limiting the movement thereof to normal set position.

3. The combination of a work support and a fabric guiding means for forming a hem 7 including an edge guiding and folding member located at one side of the stitching line,

means for adjustably securing said member to the work support so that it may be shifted toward and from the stitching line, a fabric supporting member extending across the stitching line and cooperating with said edge guiding and folding member for underfolding the edge portion of the fabric section, a supporting plate on which said fabric supporting member is pivotally mounted so that it maybe swung in a horizontal plane toward and from the edge guiding and folding member, means for adjustably supporting said plate on the work supporting plate whereby it may be shifted in a direction toward and from the line of stitching and the edge of the supporting plate set for guiding the edge of the underfolded portion of the fabric section.

4. The combination of a work support and a'fabric guiding means for "forming a hem including an edge guiding and folding mem ber located at one'side of the stitching line,

meansfor adjustably securing said member to the work support so that it may be'shift' ed toward and from the stitching line, a fabric supporting'member extending across the stitching line and cooperating with saidedge guiding and folding 'member for underfolding the edge portion of the fabric sectionya supporting plate 'on;which said fabric supporting member is pivotally mounted so that it may be swung in a horizontal plane-to ward and from the edge guiding and folding member, means for -ad ustabl y supporting said plate on the work supporting plate whereby it' may-be shifted in a direction toward and from the line of stitching and the edge of thesupporting plate set for guiding the edge of the underfolded portion of the fabric section, and a lugcarried by said fabric supporting member adapted to engage said supporting plate for limiting the swinging movement of the fabric supporting memmember.

5. The comb1nat1on of a work support and a fabric guidlng means for forming a hem including an edge guiding and folding memporting member is pivotally mounted so that If it may be swung in a-horizontal plane toward and from the edge guiding and folding member, means for adjustablyv supporting said plate on the work supporting plate whereby it may be shifted in' a direction toward and from the line of stit'chingand the edge of the supporting plate set for guiding the edge of the underfolded portion of the fabric section, said fabric supporting member including a body portion which is pivoted to the supporting plate, and a fabric plate which is adjustably attached to the body portion and shiftable to different set positions relative to the edge guiding and folding member.

6. The combination of a work support and fabric guiding means for forming a hem including an edge guiding and folding member located at one side of the stitching line, means for adjustably securing said member to the work support so that it may be shifted Y toward and from the stitching line, a fabricv supporting member extending across the stitching line and cooperating with said edge a ber toward the edge guiding and supportlng ioo guiding and folding member, for underfolding the edge port-ion of the fabric section,a

supporting plate on which said fabric supit may porting member ispivotally mounted so that be swung in a horizontal plane to- Wardand-from the edge guiding and folding member, 'means i for adjustably supporting said plate on the work supporting plate whereby it may be shifted in a direction to- Ward and from the line of stitching and the edge of the supporting plate set for guiding the edge'of the underfolded portion of the fabricvsection, said fabric supporting member including a body portion which is pivoted. to the supporting plate, a fabric plate which is adjustably attached to the body portion andshiftable'to different set positions relative to the edge 1 guiding and folding membenand a lug carried by the body portion of the fabric supporting member" adapted to engage said supporting plate for limiting the movement of the fabric supporting plate toward member.

In testimony whereof, I aflix my signature.

FRANK A. KUCERA.

the edge guiding and folding 

